10846 Hodge Lane
Gravette, AR 72736
Sep 20, 2009 :: Announcements [B]

Things Happening At Bulbmeister Nursery

This season has been great for Lycoris breeding evaluation. Bloom was especially good this year with all my spring foliage species and hybrids, I have selected over 60 plants for further evaluations and use as breeding stock. All selections are from established plots and mainly show species variation with some natural crosses that would have occurred before I acquired the stock. These will be dug, hopefully this week, and either given special plots or potted until a suitable site can be established. Additionally a number of primary and cultivar crosses were performed, making for the second year of organized effort in developing new hybrids. Seed stalks have been harvested and will be allowed to fully mature in the packing room. The seed will then be harvested and immediately planted. So, how does one properly germinate a shiny, black, round Lycoris seed?

  1. Sow immediately after harvest (if the seed coat starts looking dull, germination becomes more difficult).
  2. Prepare a seedling flat or pot with seedling medium or standard potting soil. Alternatively, prepare a seed bed in a location that is shady and protected from above ground and underground rodents; a cold frame with wire mesh barriers 4-6″ under the ground, for example.
  3. Wet the medium thoroughly then press the seeds into the medium, but only enough to stabilize the seed in the location; do not bury in the medium. I do successfully use 1/4″ of granite grit over the top of this setup with excellent success because it helps with moisture control.
  4. If using pots or flats, provide a “terrarium” environment making into a mini greenhouse. This can be done with clear plastic storage bags and even cling wraps. Sometimes a support might be required using bent wire to make mini hoops. Open ground will need regular light moisture.
  5. With the seed flat/pot setup, watering should only be necessary minimally through the fall and winter. If condensation quits developing on the surface of the clear plastic, it is too dry.
  6. If the Lycoris seed you are planting is fully hardy in your area, additional protection should not be required, but I like to have a location that can be kept above freezing. This will be a necessity for fall foliage Lycoris.
  7. Finally, as an emphasis to point 2, KEEP POTTED SEEDS OUT OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT. Leaving them in direct sunlight will create a little stove that cooks the seeds.

All viable Lycoris seed will send down a root within a few weeks after planting. Fall foliage Lycoris may get a single leaf at this time, too. Spring foliage seedlings will only send up a leaf the following spring. Once the seedlings have gone through a foliage “cycle", they can be treated like other Lycoris, but, being young, it is especially helpful to avoid hot/cold extremes and protect from rodent damage. It can take anywhere from 3-5 years, under ideal conditions, to see a seedling flower. Afternoon shade is always a good thing. So, my Lycoris plots have been the bulk of my focus this season, besides trying to spend more time with my family. I expect to be digging and replanting a number of flower bulb species and varieties by the end of October, which could bring on a special sale from Bulbmeister.COM. Current customers and notification requesters will be alerted if the opportunity arises.

Sep 20, 2009 :: Announcements [A]

What's In A Blog, Anyway?

:oops:Here, I went and set up a blog and did very little to get things going. Now that the season is slowing, I decided to drop by and write a word or two. Just who do I think I am!? This has been a pivotal year for Bulbmeister.COM in that I had to make the difficult decision to discontinue the importation of flower bulbs to concentrate on developing the flower bulb nursery. The primary reason for the decision is strictly related to economics especially as affected by the falling value of the U.S. dollar.

Additionally, I’ve not been actively marketing, simply handling orders as they come in and “strategizing” as to how I want to further develop the nursery. I’m seriously contemplating a significant dig in October for the purpose of reestablishing plots at better plant spacings. If this is done, there will be a significant discount on related items in a special sale. Although it was supposed to be this spring, I now plan to add inventory to my nursery sales list by next spring, so keep your eyes open.88|

Feb 12, 2008 :: General

Lycoris Breeding: A Short Example on Outcomes

Lycoris radiata, L. sprengeri, L. xHaywardii, L. 'Flaming Dragon'
A comparison of Lycoris radiata, sprengeri, haywardii, and ‘Flaming Dragon’
Please take note of the photograph when reading the explanations.

For so many years, now, I’ve been interested in the combined art and science of plant breeding. I have also been encouraged by the fact that one does not have to be a great scientist to participate in what is also art. &#59;) This short essay is simply given to show the potential results one can come up with when manipulating genes in flower bulbs. No, I did not design a new variety, here. This example is based on work by nature and others.

When taking the pollen from one parent (male donor) and dusting it onto the stigma of the other parent (female, seed donor), if these plants are related and/or compatible can serve to make progeny that have qualities from both parents. This process, naturally, can become very complicated and convoluted, depending on the history of one or both parents.

In today’s illustration, long ago, Lycoris radiata var. pumila (Illustrated as “A") became the female parent accepting the pollen from “B", L. sprengeri, or vice versa. The result of this cross brings about offspring that look like “C", L. xHaywardii. If one were to have their own parental representatives, s/he could get A+B=C. Written properly, the cross would be transcribed like so:

  • Lycoris radiata var. pumila x L. sprengeri

The first representative is always the female, and concerning the progeny L. xHaywardii, we can assume for now that the cross could be switched to get a similar result. Sometimes maternal genes can have some influence on the results, but I don’t know if that is the case here.

Finally, enters “D", L. ‘Flaming Dragon’. This is a hybrid of unknown (by me) origins, but I would like for you to note the strong similarities it shares with L. xHaywardii, except in richness of color. I introduce this beautiful specimen mainly to speculate on possibilities. Not knowing its actual genetic makeup, I could easily surmise it is the result of a similar cross, or possibly a crossing back to one of the parents.

How could it be a similar cross with colors so rich? Well, I am only speculating, but, when I look at Lycoris radiata var. pumila, I see much consistency in morphology. L. sprengeri, on the other hand can have varying richness in pinks and/or blue tepal (petal) tips from one plant to another in a population.

Do you have flower bulbs in the garden? Why not do a little dab here and a little daub there? Wait for the seed to ripen, plant it, and see what you get. If you have two species, all the babies will be the same (assuming bees or other pollinators didn’t help you out). If one or two varieties is involved, LOOK OUT! Every baby will be different. If you don’t have the time to study up on all the do’s and don’t’s related to plant breeding, try to remember the basic rule of thumb to cross kind with kind; Lilies with Lilies, Daylilies with Daylilies, etc. However you choose to go about it, be patient, because seeds take time to ripen and seedlings take anywhere from 1-3 years to reach flowering size, but I’ll GUARANTEE YOU that you will experience the excitement you did as a child when finding something new and previously undiscovered.

The Seed Is Planted - Bulbmeister Blogs

I’ve been quite curious of late about the popularity of blogs. Why have one? How does it replace a forum posting, or is it really any easier than publishing an article to a web page? Well, I got tired of wondering, so I began to wandering. Fact is, I began my wanderings all the way back in June of 2007, I installed this particular blog software, b2evolution, then got bogged down in the concept of configuration and template tampering, got busy with fall product lists, got lazy after that, and just finished publishing the spring flower bulbs list a couple days ago.

So, here I am, planting the seed. I’ve rooted around in this program enough to get a template made that mostly fits the feel of the rest of my site, and I hope to have a short article posted by the end of the week.

As time goes by, I hope this seed will grow, allowing me to share thoughts and ideas from general gardening observations and practices to rambling on over into the specifics of flower bulb studies and culture.

Another feature I do not understand very well, coming along in popularity with blogs, is the “RSS Feed". I hope, if you find these articles, thoughtful meanderings, and favorite links to be of use, you can also find the RSS Feed to be of service, too.

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Jan 28, 2008 :: Helpful Sites

Pacific Bulb Society

I cannot say enough great things about this organization, considering the contribution it has made to the world since its inception at the turn of this millennium. This group of volunteers has put together an extensive WIKI presentation of flower bulb images and their culture.

Additionally, they have an active listserv community where enthusiasts share loads of gardening knowledge. Finally, you don't have to be a member to participate with and take advantage the expertise of the other bulb fanatics, but for a meager $25 a year, you can also participate in their regular flower bulb and seed offers made through the listserv.

LEARN MORE ABOUT MEMBERSHIP!

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